AMV2174VAB5 Amana Microwave - Instructions

Replaced bulb by: 1 pulling plug on microwave to make sure not hot - no power; 2 used needle nose pliers with head part about same size that fit inside of socket; 3 opened pliers and held firm against broken metal part; keeping pressure of pliers against broken metal part of light bulb, slowly unscrewed the broken part from socket using firmly held opened pliers. The rest was a cinch...just screwed in new light bulb, plugged in microwave and viola - there was light once again.

Followed instruction already on your website

This site was correct in description of what was causing the problem.
I found broken white plastic parts in base of microwave, found they came from switch holder interlock support. Only reason it took me as long as it did is I did not make a diagram of the wires that I had removed.( would help to have easy access to wiring diagrams or have them on the internet ) But on the internet I found a Video by repairclinic.com the photo in the video pointed me in the right direction and allowed me to get my wiring in order the microwave then started up and runs correctly. As to the plastic parts found in the base of the unit, this unit was a floor model and probably had the door opened and slammed shut many times, breaking the Top interlock. Thanks to this site

RATHER EASY. PHILIPS SCREWDRIVER, TORX DRIVER (FOR THE 2 SCREWS SECURING THE GEARMOTOR ITSELF), VERY SMALL SCREWDRIVER TO ASSIST IN DEPRESSING THE DETENTS ON ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS AT THE MOTOR. IF THE MICROWAVE IS ABOVE A STOVE UNIT, IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO PLACE A TOWEL DOWN ON THE STOVETOP TO CATCH ANY WAYWARD SCREW IF ONE HAPPENS TO GET AWAY. (VOICE OF EXPERIENCE)

It was a bit awkward because the microwave is mounted over my stove. I had to twist around and install the bulb and then replace the cover. It was a bit uncomfortable. It took me about 10 minutes to complete.

Don't waste your time with other parts stores online. Partselect sells quality parts and they arrived 2 days early. I purchase a door switch from another online store and the switch was defective.

Removal of Phillip Head screws from Top vent and Control panel. Removed Torx head screw to remove entire switch assembly. Removed three wires to switch leads. Unclipped old switch. Replaced wires and inserted New switch in to clips. Attached assembly with Torx screw. Set Control panel back into place and screwed in top screw. Replaced upper vent with 2 screws.

Replaced both filters

Removed the microwave from above the oven by loosening the two screws above the microwave. As the unit tilted outward lifted up and the whole unit came out all the time feeding the power cord through the cutout for the power cord. After it was out removed the cover and identified the capacitor and made sure it was discharged and removed and replaced the diode. tested before reinstalling and it heated up just fine. Reversed order and reinstalled . Very easy job maybe a second hand to help fish the power cord when installing and removing.

Take off top facing over microwave using screwdriver also protection plate for diode and capaitor. Disconnect diode from frame, bracket to capacitor then remove, disconnect wires leaving diode on capacitor for right connection, replace, rewire done.

I measured. I leveled. I mounted hanging bracket and here's where it got tricky because you need two people to raise the microwave into position. I'd stack 2x4's In the back by the wall. I'd stackem in the front on the cabinet top then raise the back and add more. You get it front back front back until it's high enough to snag the bracket. Holes pre drilled raise it on up tighten bolts and poof you're done!! I did loosen the screws that pull the cabinets together and the bottom screw that holes the cabinet on one side. It didn't seem like it needed it the way it slipped in but maybe it slipped in because I did it. Only takes a minute. Use a minute here save an hour there. Go do it! Times a wastin!!

Remove top grill screws [2] remove grill replace filter put back together.

Remove the two screws to the plastic vent strip at the top of the unit. That exposes a metal cover (upper right) held in place by two more screws. (Found that removing the screw holding the key panel in place and moving that out of the way made for more work room) Remove the metal cover. The HV diode (visible) on one end is secured to the chassis by a screw. The other end is fitted to the HV capacitor. So unscrew one end and pull the HV diode off the capacitor. The replacement fits on like the old one came off. Very simple repair. But it would be safe to short the capacitor terminals to the chassis first. Noticed that it appeared the sparking was caused by the HV diode's outer casing being worn by the asbestos covered wire next to it and laying against it. I made sure the two were not touching, before putting the covers back on. Also, the problem started with an occasional spark when the MW started. It quickly deteriorated to a full, non-stop electrical sparking. You can hear it, smell it, and see it through the top vent. You don't need to remove unit to work on it.

Piece of cake. One screw to release the dropdown light diffuser. Just remember, the you're screwing the new bulb in from a reverse perspective. Also this site sends the correct part the first time.

Put s pot under were you take the screw out.If you drop it you can get it easy