10660213410 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

took door of the refergarator. Then cut old gusket of and clipped the new one on and then put the back. Done!!!!!

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

Using a screwdriver

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Installled handle using existing screws tightening all after all screws were inserted. Part of the problem was that I weakened the original handle because I didn't know about the shield over the single screw on the front of the door. I purchased the unit at the Sacramento outlet and didn't get an instruction packet upon delivery.

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

I screwed the bracket in. How ever the placement of the screw made it impossible to use a small wrench. I had to manually tighten it. Having a screw head would have been better

I turned breaker off to fridge, it was easier than pulling fridge out in camper. I took 4 screws out of back panel that revealed the evap fan, took 2 more screws out to take fan bracket off. Unplugged fan plug. Took fan blade off the non working evap motor and put it on the new evap motor. Put all the screws back in the reverse order and flipped the breaker and air started circulating.