10646032800 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Not being a professional repair tech, I looked at this sites provided schematics of the ice-maker. I assumed due to the problem I had which parts to order. the parts arrived within 3 days and after I took the icemaker apart I quickly realized I ordered the wrong parts. I called and asked what to do. since I did not open the packaging for the "wrong" parts I was able to make a return. I then called back because I discoverd the part I really needed wasn't shown in the sketch. I was told that I needed to order a new motor and it would have the part I needed. I ordered the part and within 3 days it arrived. Once I had the new part I was able to quickly install. Now I have a icemaker that works better than new since ,now it does not seem to jam either.

To make the repair:
First remove the 1/4" nut head screw on the under side of the ice maker.
Remove the shroud covering the electrical connection.
Slide out the maker and depress the locking clip.
Disconect the electrical wires.
Pull off the motor cover (no screws).
Remove the three philips head screws from the motor housing. Gently remove the motor.
Next loosen the screws and pull the "black motor-mounting harness" untill enough clearance to remove the ejector arm and deflector tray. The new kit will have a new ejector arm and deflector tray.
Insallation is the reverse.
The schematics were very helpfull.
It was very simple and I saved a $150 service fee to have someone else do it for me.
PS. When I called I was able to speak to real live Americans who were able to help me, were pleasant, polite, and professional, AND they did not treat me like I was stupid because I am not a professional repair man. I will definately use this service again. and recommend to all my DIY friends!!

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

removed old shelf support after taking out the glass and support. New part was a perfect fit that was a "shap: to put in.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

After lots of internet exploring and diagnosis, the icemaker comes right out, and with three screws out and in, the job is all but done. Don't pay anyone for this repair!!!!!

I found a repair guide online to check the resistance of the motor, thermostat, and heater mold. The resistance of the motor and heater mold were both a little off from their recommendations. I had an assumption that it was the motor but I decided to just buy the whole assembly basically for spare parts and I didn't feel like messing around with it any more. The new icemaker was not just a drop in replacement as part select told me because the Icemaker Bearing and Cup Assembly was larger than the original one. Thus, I had to switch it with the old one really quick so instead of a 3 min job it was 20 or so.....

Being too lazy to pull out the refrigerator out and unplug it, I turned it off at the fuse box. Opened the freezer door and unscrewed the three screws holding the sensor. Pulled the sensor out and unscrewed the board then unpluged it and removed it. Plugged in new board, screwed it in then replaced the three screws. Repeat on the other side. The most difficult part was getting to one of three screws on each side; it almost required a third hand to hold the flap door between the ice maker and the bin, while removing said screw. I must at say that this product is definitely over engineered.

removed old bracket and replaced with new one - two screws and it was done - simple

I removed the cardboard back then using a nut driver removed the three mounting screws, removed the old fan/motor and installed the new one, installing the three screws and replacing the cardboard cover.

My big problem was getting the right parts. Don't ever order refrigerator parts using the refrigerator model number. I did and got the wrong part, sent it back and talked to the parts lady and ordered again describing the error, the needed parts shape etc and she sent me the exact part I had sent back. I sent it back and removed the fan motor to get the part number, called and ordered by number and got the right one. Hallelujah!

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

I removed the two screws holding the cover door, then the three on the uder side of the icemaker assembly. I carefully worked the old unit out; it was a tight fit. The most difficult step involved disconnecting the power assembly. Due to the space, it was hard to get hold of each side of the clip to pull it out. After the old unit was out, just reversed the steps and had the first batch of ice in less than an hour. (I washed the new unit with warm water and soup as it had grease/lubricant on it when taken out of the package).

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

Have not installed yet as I'm on a quick TX-FL-TX turnaround. Bought and received the part in 24 hours...great. Order contained no instructions. I could probably figure it out myself just have not attempted yet.

Very simple, just remove two bolts holding the auger, One note: the auger comes with a new drive coupling sleeve so it is not necessary to order one.