39631UGXAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Moved refrigerator out from wall, unplugged from electric, removed plate at bottom back with 1/4 nut driver, turned incoming water valve off, disconnected water line from water valve on refrigerator, removed mounting screw, remove water lines from valve and electrical plugs, set old valve aside and replace with new valve, reconnecting water lines and electrical plugs then remount bracket, reconnect water line from source, open water valve and check for leaks, replugged refrigerator and depressed the door button to check to see if working. It worked and there was not any leaks. Replaced back plate and placed refrigerator against wall. Job completed.

Our daughter spilled juice on the refrigerator light button. It started with the light coming on very slowly and then not at all. We popped off the old button with a flat head screwdriver, plugged in the new one. Works perfect. Can't believe how inexpensive and easy the fix was.

Moved refrigerator forward, this allowed me to work on the back panel. Unplugged the refrigerator power cord. Released all 6 screws, removed panel then release an additional screw that was holding the water valve and the two (red & blue) connectors. Then installed the new part in reverse steps. Plug the unit and job well done. I had purchase the water filter already after several minutes push for water from the dispensing front part of the refrigerator and good to go, later in the evening we notice the ice maker working fine and producing ice. Thank you parts select.

unscrewed lamp and replaced it with new one!

I pulled the refrigerator away from the wall and turned off the water to the refrigerator and unplugged it from the wall. After removing the icebucket from the freezer I located the mounting screws, loosened them, unplugged the electrical connection below the icemaker and carefully removed it from the freezer. I unpacked the replacement icemaker, matched it against the original and attached the electrical connection adapter. Using the slots provided on the new icemaker I placed it over the mounting screws after aligning the water inlet pipe properly. I tightened the mounting screws while maintaining the icemaker in a level position. I plugged in the electrical connector. Then I replaced the icebucket, plugged in the refigerator back into the 110VAC outlet, turned on the water and repositioned the refrigerator in it's normal position.

Replace the motor fan on condenser and clean the condenser

i had to improvise And relocate ground wire to get a proper ground .. That's all , the video was a GREAT HELP...

It just snapped in place

Looked it up on You Tube and basically followed the very simple instructions. Two minor differences: 1) I took the old gasket off while the door was still attached to the fridge. And 2) because it was a side-by-side freezer/ fresh food, I didn't have to take off the freezer door at all and the fresh food door was only attached at the top with 2 screws covered by a hinge cap. So I undid the screws and lifted it off the lower pin. We put the door on a table handle down and slightly off the table edge. Inserting the v-shaped rubber part of the gasket into the groove was easy- pinching it together with my fingers with a little hammer tap at the corners. Reinstalled the door and voila. 27 minutes!
Most of my DIY projects take twice as long as expected. Much time is spent taking off the old part then not as easy as expected to replace the new part. This was a breeze!

Removed the back cover over the control board, and made sure that the board was the same. It didn't look exactly the same, but figured that it was the same, just updated. Took out the board, moved the wires to the new board and reinstalled. Plugged it in and it came on, so I reinstalled the cover. Seems to be working to this day.

Performed self test.turned off ice maker switch four 5 minutes.Then turn on switch,within 10 seconds,pushed ice paddle 3 times,with 1 second in between each push.Push all the way back and release. Ice maker should cycle and squirt water. My ice maker did neither.I unplugged cord from fridge.So i replaced the ice maker.After a couple of screws had ice again !

The problem was both the valve and a frozen slug of water in the supply line located inside the door. After replacing the valve, I turned the freezer to a setting of 1 and in about 30 hours, water flowed out the tap.

Unplugged ref.,turnned water off at wall and drained, removed back cover on lower part of ref. then removed screw holding water valve,unplugged both wires from unit,pulled the 3 water lines off,1 I had to cut, would not release,got new water valve,push 3 water lines in place,attached the 2 wires in place and screwed unit back on ref.and replaced back cover on ref. Then I got a hair dryer and thawed all ice that had built up behind and under ice maker in freezer,cleaned that mess up,turned water back on plugged in ref. All good ,repaired problem,old water valve was bad.

For troubleshooting, I took off rear panel inside of the freezer compartment & determined that icing of the coils was not the problem & it did not apprear to be a defroster malfunction. All components appeared to be working properly except the compressor would not turn on and only room temperature air was being circulated by the fan. After narrowing the probable causes down to a faulty Main control board by reading as many similar posts as possible,I ordered the new control board. When it arrived the following morning via UPS(less than 24 hours!), I unplugged the wiring connections attached to the old board, (which was somewhat different in appearance), and then gently popped the circuit board off of the plastic retainer studs by pushing in the little retaining clip part of the studs in with a small screwdriver so the board could be released easier as I pulled outward. I popped the new board on the studs by gently & evenly pushing with a larger hut driver over the studs until it was locked in, being careful not to damage or over stress/bend the board. I placed the wiring connecters onto the pins on the board.....every connecter had a different amount of pins so improper connection was not possible. I placed the ground wire connection of the new board between the metal cover plate @ an adjacent screw location to ensure grounding to the back of the fridge sheet metal. I plugged in the refrigerator and was quite relieved when I heard the compressor start up after a second or two! Within moments the temp began to fall until it reached the proper temp in both compartments. Success!

I first called a GE repairperson. The diagnose the problem and told me the main control board was shot and the double outlet water valve needed replaced. The estimate for both parts and repairs was $850.00. I thought the estimate was high so I did some research on-line and discovered I could purchase the parts myself. When I researched the part, a short video popped up explaining how to install the part. I watched both video's and did exactly what the guy in the video said and was able to repair my refrigerator/freezer myself. The total cost for both parts was $200.00, I save $650!!! Amazing. I ordered the part on Saturday, and was told it would take a week to 10 days to receive the part and the part showed up on my door steep the following Tuesday. I'll never call a repairmen first again. I'll research the issue through partselect.com and try to fix the problem myself. I am not technologically or mechanically sauvy and have spent thousands on repair bills in the past, no more will I do that.