DTL18ICSVRBS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I didn't call for repair iwas just order 2 pcs it's coming early morning in the next day I was happy 1hundred% I will recommend this company

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

Performed self test.turned off ice maker switch four 5 minutes.Then turn on switch,within 10 seconds,pushed ice paddle 3 times,with 1 second in between each push.Push all the way back and release. Ice maker should cycle and squirt water. My ice maker did neither.I unplugged cord from fridge.So i replaced the ice maker.After a couple of screws had ice again !

Unplugged fridge and removed back panel inside freezer compartment . Unclipped defrost thermostat and snipped off with wire cutters . Installed new defrost thermostat with wire nuts , clipped back on , re-installed back panel , turned on fridge and within a couple hours food compartment began cooling down . Thermostat looks like a small metal can clipped onto the heating coils with 2 wires attached . Also noticed excess ice build up on coils melted and drained into pan under fridge once unit started working .

I first replaced the ice maker and when that didn't work, I found out through this forum that another possibility is the water outlet valve.

When I got the replacement, it took some time to install because the bracket wasn't the same as the original. There are enough places on the bracket to mount the unit, but it may require using some force to bend the bracket so that it will flush with the wall.

After installation, it took about 2 days to fill up the ice bin. It cycles out ice crescents every 2-3 hours.

Thanks partselect for having this forum and saving me some money by having others share their experiences.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Super simple. Extremely fast delivery of part. Simply disconnect the 2 fast-on connectors to valve, disconnect intake and out lines. connect intake and out tubes to new unit, mount via screws to fridge, reconnect the 2 fast-on power connectors and your back in business. Could not be an easier repair.

The original design is poor. The evaporator fan is mounted in an upright position just below the ice-maker. A plastic grate mounts over the fan assembly to allow for air circulation. Unfortunately, random chips of ice from the ice maker can fall into the fan, causing the fan to shear its blades. Replacement of the fan blade is relatively simple (accept for having to completely unload the freezer and remove all back covers, the ice-maker auger motor assembly, and the metal evaporator cover). In order to mimimze this from reoccuring, I installed a 1/4'' mesh metal screen over the exhaust ports on the cover. Thus far, this has worked well to keep ice chips out of the evaporator fan.

I ended up needing to order a new ice maker because the one I had is discontinued. I'm a 65yr old grandma and I did it myself!!!! The hardest part was finding the tool to loosed the nuts. I took the old one out and just put the new one right in it's place. Easy as pie.

All the repair people was on the money . I read them all .1--- NO paper work with new valve (.no instructions) ..2--- bracket is not the same .. I reversed my braket and it worked fine .you do not have to bend bracket.3--- It will take a day or so to start making ice..4--- the plastic nut is no longer needed on the new type outlet valve ....5--- the new outlet valve looks a little different from the old valve. WORKS GREAT ..

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

removed broken bin , slid new ice bin in closed door. I bought the complete part.

My son did it , and showed me what he did when he was finished.

Unplug refridge then loosened two bolts holding old ice maker. Lower then unplug and removed. Plugged in new harness and tightened two bolts to secure new ice maker. Plug in frig and wait for ice.

The icemaker arm disconnected from the metal frame. This caused the icemaker to cycle and the heater to come on and stay on until the plastic parts melted causing a mess and stink. This action melted the ice and then the water fell through the frozen items in the freezer and refreezed in the lower portion. OK, I remover the dead icemaker and tossed it away. I installed the new icemaker and the wiring harness didn't fit right (way to long). I retrieved the old icemaker and removed the wiring harness from it. I removerd the new ice maker and installed the old wiring harness to the new icemaker. I then installed the new icemaker, plugged it in and turned on the power. No water, I ordered the dual solenoid water valve, installed it with difficulty (another story) the turned on the power. I reinstalled the ice bin and found it didn't fit. The icemaker was to low and couldn't be adjusted, 1/4" higher would have been great. I shoved in the bin anyway, I was out of ice for my scotch, and it started making ice.