4RF315PXDQ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

took out the old heating elments and cleaned the bottom & top of oven with out the elments in, which made it alot easier then put new ones in. They were very easy to do, just make sure you watch how you took old ones out and don't loose the screws cause you use them to put new ones in.

SUPER EASY! The part arrived very quickly. I turned off the circuit breaker, unscrewed the few nuts, pulled out the element and reversed the process. 'works beautifully! Thanks so much.

removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!

Simple, just pull out old burners and slide new ones in place. Tried both, they work excellent!

I just had to pull out the old burner and straighten the prongs for the new burner and insert, The prongs of the new burner were slightly bent in shipment, but were easy to straighten with the pliers. The burners were sent in a bag and not a box -- therefore the prongs were easily bent. I was very pleased that I (73 year old lady) was able to fix my stove without a repairman. Saved $$$

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

REMOVE BACK COVER. UN PLUG, REMOVE TWO SCREWS IN SIDE OVEN, PULL OUT , REPLACE, REATTACH, FIXED CODE F-3

I removed surface burner and drip pan from stove. Then drilled out the remaining part of the old stabilizer clip. Once clip was removed I installed the new stabilizer clip with the screw and nut that came with the clip. Then I placed the drip pan back into position and installed the burner and locked it into the new clip.

Unplugged old burner elements. Popped in new burners. Turned on the burners to test.

Not only it was easy to install but to find them was even quicker, thanks to Part Select.com. After searching for quite some time I found the site and my problem was solved. Item was received in a timely manner and replacing was very quick.
Thank you.

Replaced with the new burner works like new. Thanks a bunch!

I had to remove the original clips (broken or damaged). This was the hardest part -- the clips were held on by rivets (not screws), so I had to pound/punch them out (using care so not to damage the stove top). Once I punched the rivet out all that remained was a small hole, I just used the small nut and bolt that came with my stablizer clip kit and mounted the new clips. Everything worked out fine.

The broiler unit had disintegrated at both connections. I removed the two screws in the top of the oven holder the unit, pulled out the unit, measured and ordered a replacement.

To replace the element, I pulled out the stove, removed the rear panel, located the connections for the broiler unit, remove parts of the old unit. I then attached the new unit to the top of the oven with the two screws, went around back and pushed in the two connections, replaced the back cover and replace the stove. It took about 30 minutes because I cleaned everything and sprayed bug spay (another plus for doing the repair myself).

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

1. Turn off oven.
2. Switch off circuit braker to oven.
3. Remove two screws holding element.
4. Pull element out to expose connectors.
5. Disconnect connectors and remove element.
6. Reverse procedure for installation.