156-1W (1X) Maytag Range - Instructions

* Do not lose the supplied CERAMIC electric connecting nuts; they will not fry in the heat.

* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.

* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridge base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.

* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.

* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.

* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.

* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.

* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.

remove burned out eye, replaced with new eye.new eye does not fit exactally correct onto splash pan as point on end of steel " rod " not pointed enough to slip into mate on splash pan

I removed the heating element and noticed that the prongs were corroded. I looked for a model number but couldn't find it so it made it difficult to find a replacement until I got on this website. I found the replacement part and also found that as I checked for other sites for this part this company was the most resonable priced.
The part arrived and I replaced it in seconds. Turned it on and it worked immediately. Super easy.

First I disconnect the breaker. I removed the defected receptacle and cut the wires. I connected the new receptacle with parts with the new part. Turned the breaker back on and everthing worked fine.

I unplugged the stove. Took out the burner and removed receptacle by pulling it out of the bracket and clipping the wires. One thing you want to make sure is that when you clip the wires from the receptacle you're replacing you leave enough wire so that you can connect them to the wires on the new receptacle when it is in place on the stove. I had just enough but would have liked more. The bracket I received didn't match the one on the stove so I used the one on the stove since the receptacle itself was the same as the one I was replacing.

Cut broken wire and existed wire off and put splice on both new and old wires to connect them.
It's easy job.

I removed the burner elements for three burners by lifting the surface top and unplugging them. I snapped out the plug sockets that were burned out and cut the two wires, one element at a time. Using the included wire nuts I stripped the ends of the cut wire and connected each wire to one of the wires on the new socket. Once the wires were connected I snapped the sockets in place and reinstalled the elements, lowered the surface top and the range was ready to use.

After buying a 'universal' part at Lowe's and it not fitting correctly and shorting out the burner, I went online and found this source for an exact replacement part. Beside having to disassemble the drop in stove burner two or three times it went well when I had the correct part. I lost one screw somewhere and that delayed me a short time to find a replacement. Thus the 1 to 2 hours. It would have been about a 30 minute job if I had been smarter.

The repair was just a matter of sliding the old one out and plugging the new one in. The ease of use of this website was wonderful. Super fast shipment. Im very pleased.

I ordered and received the replacement element, then unplugged the old one and plugged in the new one.

Job done.

Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.

10 Minutes for a stove my landlord thought was not fixable (repairman had already cut the wires to the element and capped them)! The delivery person handed me the package, I got out the single tool needed, installed the part, put away the tool, cleaned my hands, and put a pot of water on the stove to boil for pasta. 10 minutes!

Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).

Starting by me making a substitute prong to keep the stove working while the part this coming by mail. was a piece of cake.

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.