66572169302 Kenmore Range - Instructions

took old one off and installed new one used electrical tape to hold glass from sliding.Unscrewed moulding and installed new one

the hardest part was moving stove to trplace part

Our existing gas stove burner igniter had broken on one of the four burners. I therefore obtained a replacement igniter and mounting screw form PartSelect.com which were indeed perfect replacement parts. However, I could not remove the burner plates from the top of the stove since they were basically welded into position by years of heat. I therefore followed instructions as submitted by a previous customer (thank you Michael of Bloomington, Il), snapped open the stove lid retainer clips, and then lifted the stove surface about 4 inches. Through that opening I was able to reach the underside of the involved burner. Unfortunately, I could not unscrew the existing broken igniter mounting screw and therefore had to break off the already broken igniter and grind down the remaining mounting screw using a drill grinder since the screw was basically welded into place. Once I did that, I was then able to install the new igniter using a separate unused screw hole already in place right beside the old previous mounting screw. With that done, the new igniter works perfectly and the burner works just like new. It was however a lengthy process over two hours long because of the glitches described above. Nevertheless I'm very pleased that the parts were perfect and the repair is complete.

Removed two gas lines at the safety valve. Removed the four mounting screws and disconnected the three wires. Re-assembled in reverse order of dis-assembly. This was an easy diagnosis and repair/replacement. The PartSelect website is very easy to use if you have the model number and I like the diagrams to be sure the part is correct.

I had problem with the oven of the stove since the beginning. It wa difficult to start. Later, it stoped working. The technician told m that the gas valve regulator was the problem. That was the reason I decided to buy a new one. After installing it, however, the problem continues. The ignition starts, but the gas does not go thru. It seems the signal does not go to the valve to open the gas.

Removed two screws holding the bottom in, pulled out old bottom, inserted new bottom, replaced screws and tightened them. Total time less than five minutes.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

REMOVE BOTTOM OVEN PAN. REMOVE GAS DEFLECTOR. REMOVE GAS TUBE. UNPLUG WIRE. REMOVE TOP AND BOTTOM SCREWS ON IGNITER. REPLACE IGNITER AND REATTACH IGNITER SCREWS. RE-INSERT IGNITER PLUG. REPLACE GAS TUBE AND DEFLECTOR. REPLACE OVEN BOTOOM PAN.

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too

Removed the bottom pan and heat shield plate, removed the drawer to get to the igniter disconnect the one wire from it and removed it and just repeated the same process backwards to put the new one in. All under 15 mins

Removed grills. Removed bottom plate.
Removed flame shield.
Removed igniter, 2 hex head screws. Bottom one is a bit awkward. Disconnected wire. Installed new igniter. Careful not to drop stuff in the hole. Like a socket. I did

I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!

Very easy. Pulled the stove away from the wall. Used a screw driver to remove the two nuts to release the heat sensor, disconnected the wire, removed the sensor. Inserted the new sensor, plugged back into the circuit. put the two nuts back.
Beware, if the first time you put the oven on, if the error message comes back up (mine did) push the cancel/off button, wait a few minutes, put oven back on. System probably needed to reset. Mine worked perfectly after.

As the 2 screws in the front of the flame spreader didn't screw into anything , and made getting the flame spreader very difficult to remove, once I got the flame spreader out , I did cut off the screws so future install & removal would be easy. I had to hacksaw the screws off , as the screws are otherwise impossible to remove. The screws were damaging the oven metal sheet work during first removal ! Otherwise the new bake ignitor install would have been a very quick 20 minutes. Also I watched u-tube bake ignitor install & oven door remove videos, which were extremely helpful.

I ordered the exact replacement igniter through the website. I removed the oven bottom plate and the flame spreader to gain access to the igniter/burner assembly. I removed the burner from the oven to access the mounting bolts for the igniter. I replaced the assembly into the oven and reconnected the igniter wire and it was set!