36362709300 Kenmore Microwave - Instructions

Remove screws holding bottom cover. Cover then swings down allowing access to the receptacles. Receptacles have a single screw attaching them to the appliance with a simple electrical plug supplying power. Very easy.

Lower base of the microwave, about 6 screws,
replaced broken light bulb socket,then re-installed.
Installed new light bulb.

Fortunately I had my handyman here to repair a leak under my kitchen sink and asked him to replace the handle on my microwave. There were no instructions included with the handle but I had printed out descriptions from the web site of what others had done. He pried off the inside of the door which revealed two screws, which he removed. He then had to pry off another covering which revealed the other two screws that removed the handle. He attached the new handle and put the two parts that were pried off back on. It would not be an easy process for the ordinary householder and it would have been nice if detailed instructions had come with the handle (with pictures showing exactly which areas of the door needed to be removed). I was going to try the repair myself but am extremely glad my handyman was there as I probably would have ruined the microwave and would have had to purchase a new one. Kudos to my handyman.

Ordered and replaced turntable coupler. Still didn't work.
Ordered turntable motor. Left bottom of microwave open for motor to arrive since the parts are shipped so quickly. Sure nuff parts arrived 3 days later, replaced and walla walla fixed in 10 minutes. Simple, simple.

Looked at schematic to see which parts became active when the power button was pushed. From there used meter to determine diode was open and capacitor was shorted. Biggest trouble was dis-assembly/assembly required to get to electrical parts.

Must remove 5 screws in bottom of Microwave, which is hinged to the unit. Then simply remove the old lamp holders, and replace with replacements. Uses only a single screw for each lamp.

First, potatoe burned up in microwave. Microwave
was dead. Took off cover and found maintaince repair pamphlet in envelope. Schematic showed one shot thermostat for fire. Ordered thermostat from you and installed it. Works fine.

I removed the broken turntable coupling and popped on the new one. Simple as that. It was a 2-minute job.

I followed the instructions provided by others on-line who had done a similar repair. I removed a handful of screws, disconnected the wires from the old drive motor and connected them to the new drive, replaced the screws that held the drive motor in place, and those that held the bottom housing in place, and I was done. Literally took less than 10 minutes. If I had known earlier how easy it was, the microwave would have been fixed much earlier.

Removed Old Handle with minor difficulty, two screws came out easy other two had to drill out back plate to get to other two screws, after that, repair went fine.Took about an hour total time for repair, and sure saved alot of money!!

Troubleshooting process:
Using a screw driver I opened the bottom of the unit using a Philips screwdriver and unhooked the drive motor electrical connector. Using a multimeter I checked to ensure power to the motor. This confirmed that the motor is bad and must be replaced.

Repair process:
After receiving new motor I removed the old motor and installed the new one using a Philips screwdriver and closed up the bottom cover.

It functioned good as new. Relatively cheap and very easy fix.

Unpugged microwave. Removed the screws on the bottom cover of the micorwave. Unpugged drive motor and removed two screws from drive motor. Installed new motor and replaced the bottom cover, plugged in microwave . . . presto!

Installation was just as easy as numerous other customers indicated. Also, your service was as great as many other customers indicted . . . part was recieved in 2 business days. Thank you for great service and website.

First I removed the screws that were underneath the microwave. Once I did that I disconnected the wires to the bulbs and removed the screws that were attached to the holder lamp. replaced the parts and reversed the process. It went really smooth.

The replacement of the light no problem, the reason the light broke; problem. The original was glued in (for transport i think) and simply trying to unscrew it out (in a very tight slot) it broke; be careful or you’ll be buying a new $20 bulb (with shipping and handling).

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.