CVM517P3R2D1 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.

unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......

I just needed to remove 2 philp screws and insert filter. The filter fit perfectly and perfomred as expected.

Followed the instructions on your website and a YouTube video. The diode was at a 90 degree angle which made it a little trickier. Unfortunately the repair did not resolve the problem. I ended up buying a new microwave for temporary use for less than ordering any more parts. We are pleased with your website, instructions, ease of installation though!

removed two screws, set in place. done. The best parts was that your ordering and shipping was out of this world. Never thought I would get the Filter that fast. Thanks You made my day.

I attached the mounting plate to the wall as directed in the installation instructions which I had downloaded from GE. This procedure took 45 minutes to complete. I was then able to mount the microwave.

Looked on line and found a you tube that said to check the door micro switches (there are three of them. Found one of the switches had an actuator that was stuck down. I got the actuator working but problem was still present. Another you tube showed how to repair the contacts in the switch and that solved the problem. however the plastic piece that holds the switches was broken and would not hold the switches securely. Ordered that piece and a new switch. Remove the vent plate on top (one phillips) and the control panel (one phillips). The switch holder is held in place with 2 phillips and is a little tricky to get it out and undo the wires. Once out, it's just a matter of putting the switches into the new holder and reinstalling it. Google the model number and the problem and there's virtually a you tube to repair ANYTHING.

So my microwave was turning on and operating but nothing would get hot or even Luke warm. After watching several online videos on the problem I replaced the line fuse, diode, and the magnetron. I figured why waste time and just do all 3 while I have the thing apart. I discharged the capacitor with a light bulb first before doing anything. Also had to pop the safety pins on the outside screws to take the metal housing off the microwave. Then Wallah! Everything is working and the food or liquid is hotter than it ever was. The only think that bothers me a little bit is that after the microwave shuts off, I can hear a few crackles or faint pops for about 5 seconds. I wonder if this is anything to worry about. Comments appreciated.

Open microwave door and remove plastic cover running across top of the oven box by unscrewing 3 Phillips head screws above and behind plastic cover. (4th screw to the right is not related to this cover). DO NOT PULL COVER STRAIGHT OUT. Cover slides either right or left then pops out. Remove old filter and replace and reinstall cover. Filter lays at a 45 degree angle against metal tabs tilting toward you.

scape melted plastic off of oven wall. apply pliers to melted plastic, pinch plastic, and turn one quarter turn and remove. grab new rack holder with pliers, insert into hole and twist one-quarter turn

open microwave door remove 3 screws on top of microwave, slide top panel to the left and pull out top panel slide old filter out put in new one and reassemble

Required removing the old unit and disconnecting the exhaust ductwork and drilling new holes for attachment to the cabinet

Removed unit from above range. (A two person task.) Removed display panel, disconnecting wires from plugins. Removed outer cover to access magnetron. Used camera to take photos before disconnecting other wires. Replaced magnetron and reconnected wires, double checking with photo. Tested prior to reinstalling. It works fine.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

My oven is installed above the counter making it a bit difficult to reach the screws closest to the wall. Instructions should note that both harnesses need to be disconnected and that there are two screws, not one holding the motor. This one issue made it frustrating since that screw is located towards the back away from your vision. This is when the flash light and a bit of contortions were required.