10642102300 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Unplugged refrigerator, Removed lower back panel, Removed fan from fan bracket, Installed new fan to fan bracket, Installed new wire assembly to fan, Replaced back panel. Plugged refrigerator back in and it works great. Only tool needed was 1/4" socket.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

The repair didn't get done, because both times that I requested a 25-Watt Light Bulb, I received a 3.6 Watt bulb instead & neither one worked. So I tried testing the original bulb in a table lamp & it worked. So I sense that the problem may be in the switch that allows the light to turn on when the drawer is opened & shut off when the drawer is closed.

Remove back side cardboard access cover. About 6 dcrews need to be removed. Remove 9/16” bolt and lower compressor tray frame down to slide out wheel axel. Place wheel in slot and replace axel. Lift compressor tray and replace 9/16” bolt. Replace cardboard cover. Remove 2x4.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

I opened rear wall inside freezer (two screws) cut the wires on old thermostat and removed it. Then I attatched the new thermostat to the existing wires using wire nuts and electrical tape and slid it onto the copper tubing. Re-installed the rear wall. Freezer works like a charm and the refridgerator is also colder. Job completed in twenty minutes and Tim Allen has nothing on me. Mike Milne

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

After unplugging the appliance, I unscrewed the screws in the bottom and the back of the freezer compartment and un-clipped the connector for the ice machine, which i do not have installed. I clipped the pink and brown wires and replace the switch with the new switch. unfortunately, the appliance is still dripping water from the freezer compartment. It worked for a couple of days then stopped working. Still looking for a true FIX.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Pulled the refrigerator out from the wall, I had unplugged it prior so it didn’t burn out the compressor. Put both new pieces together, I ordered both just in case they were both bad. Used the screwdriver and removed the screws from the bottom cover. Removed the silver wire thing, unplugged the wire connector and pulled out the old piece. Plugged the wire connector into the new piece and pushed the new piece into the silver prongs, replaced the silver wire thing, put the back on the refrigerator and replaced the screws and crossed my fingers.
Plugged it in, turned on the refrigerator and freezer on from inside the refrigerator and joila it started right up and is working. I am a 63 year old female, and had watched the video first on how to remove and replace it.

I have a Whirlpool side by side refrigerator/freezer, 12 years old. One day it just stopped cooling and there was water running under the fridge (melted the ice in the ice bucket). Checked the freezer fan and it was working. I also checked the condenser fan by checking air flow under the fridge; there was airflow, so it was working. Listened to the sound of refrigerator. Noticed the compressor was coming on and after a few seconds clicked (tripped). I figured either the compressor is burned or the Start Device is bad. Turned the plug off, took off the lower back cover using a nut driver. Removed the clip holding the Start Device and gently unplugged the Start Device from the compressor. Measured the resistance across compressor terminals. They should all read some resistance (10,6,4 ohm roughly). Also checked the continuity between each terminal and compressor shell. They were all open (means no shorting). I figured the Start Device should be bad. Ordered new part for $40, replaced it with old one, put the cover back on. Plugged the unit on and everything was working. Remember that it takes a while to cool both compartment, so do not expect the fridge/freezer to get cool quickly.

Definitely need to watch a youtube video on how to do it. No instructions come with the gasket so you need some instructions. Once I managed to get it started it went fairly quickly. Difficult to get it started but once it is started it is not too difficult

First took all frozen food out and than undid the screws that held back on--than cut the wires that held the piece and replaced it but also found that the plug was frozen so we thawed that out, that is why it took longer. Used air compressor to blow air and it broke it free and than we finished and put the food back after it got cold. So far it is working find and to beat all we received our part the next day so my husband could fix it that weekend--Thank you for the quick respond-
Patricia in Marengo Ohio

Simple remove the fan and motor, plug in the new cord and screw in the new motor.

pulled fridge out, remove back cover, remove 4 screws holding fan put new fan in with new screws way easy dont call a repair man for this shipping was fast thank you for that