41784132000 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I had difficulty getting the old part out to get the new one in. I just about had to take the gram apart to get to everything.

Removed screw and disconnect wires. Connect wires to new Moisture Sensor and slide clip to right side of dryer and tighten screw on left side.

Main problem was the bearing, replaced the belt and felt seal as well
The video instruction was very helpful
Was easy with basic mechanical aptitude
Dryer running great now
All parts from Partselect.com
Have ordered from them before and would order from them again

followed the instruction on you tube, the part was exact, there was nothing to guess, basically you take the whole front off of the dryer, that in itself is easy (follow instructions), once you get to the element, just plug and play. the worst part was a set screw in the back that did take some patience, but finally did get it in. I am not a mechanic in the least, trust me, if I can do it then anyone can. you will need regular Philips screw driver and one short one, really short, mine is about 2 inches in length, also I used manual one, allot of plastic, so I would not recommend electric drill or electric driver. also a good pair of plyers, but small not large.

Just remove and replaced no tools required

Inserted lint filter into slot.
Replacement is exact match to original filter.

Once we got the dryer out of the cramped where we could work on it, the project went a little quicker. I'd recommend using paper plates/bowls, that you label, to hold all the screws for each piece you remove off the back. It doesn't seem like it will be a lot, but we had at least 20-30 screws in 4-5 different sizes. Unlike someone else's install, we had to completely pull the white back panel off, as well as the main back cover, due to one screw holding the air duct from the inside of the dryer compartment (meaning we couldn't reach everything from the back). Getting this screw out was a challenge and seemed like a huge design flaw, but if you can't get to that screw, the old air duct isn't coming out. There are 2 other screws holding the air duct but they're easy to reach once the back panel is off.
Once that was taken out the process was straightforward, we just took our time reattaching everything step-by-step. Now our dryer works like new.

I purchase one tube of heat resistant adhesive but I change both seals if you could afford to buy a second to I would recommend you do so the one tube just made it. For instructions on how to prepare the drum for installing new seals I went on YouTube

I researched possible causes on line and watched a PartsSelect video on YouTube on how to test. I ended up misreading test results and ordered the High Limit Thermostat but subsequently realized problem was the Terminal Block. No problem, PartsSelect took back the Thermostat (I hadn't installed it) and shipped me the Terminal Block. My dryer was back up and running in less than 7 days from initial analysis to installation of Terminal Block. Instructions that came in confirmation email for installation were perfect and easy to follow. Total cost with new power cord from Home Depot was less than $50 vs a quoted service call of $175+ parts from local electrician.

Fast and easy. Started by pulling out refrigerator and unplugging it. Water valve for ice maker was already turned off due to leaking. Disconnected old valve, detached old valve, reattached new valve and reconnected water lines. Bled the lines and turned back on. Make sure temp in freezer stays at recommended temps for ice making.

Turn off water, un-plug refrigerator, dis-connect water, un-screw bracket, remove valve and replace same way...Very easy

as on the video. so easy. took longer to clean-up

i simply took the old one out and replaced it with the new one. it fit perfectly.