CDG4205AWJ Crosley Dryer - Instructions

After reading all the other repair stories on Partselect, by the way thank you all, I removed the door, then removed the two security hooks that hold the top secure. Then I removed the front panel. I then marked all the screws on the outer door and shroud so I could easily put it back together. I left the all the wires connected and set the shroud and outer door to the side and removed the drum belt and drum. Removed the spring off the idler arm, then using nutdriver, removed the screw that secures the idler arm to the motor. Assembled the new idler arm parts and reversed the process to put it all back together. If I would have replaced the idler arm assembly the same time I replaced the drum support rollers, I wouldn't have had to do this twice! But now I am an expert repair tech on this particular model.

took old one out then i had to strip the connector off new one was to big...

Replaced thermal fuse and replaced door switch

The support rollers were fried, literally. I'm honestly surprised they held on. Let's just say that the "roller" part wasn't even attached to the support wheel... That bad. Because there wasn't much support there is a small tear in the metal on the back drum. The felt seal for the drum had basically been worn down to pieces. So I order two drum support rollers, two roller shafts, a new drum felt seal, and a new rib belt.

After the repair, no more squeaking, literally a huge difference, and because of there's plenty of support now for the drum, there isn't any clothes being torn. If it weren't for the videos and the parts, we would of spent hundreds of dollars on a new dryer. Instead we spent just over $100 and now our dryer is quiet and operating better than when we got it.

remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .

Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.

Turned out to be the primary coil on the gas valve. If you remove the cover of the coils and wait for the dryer to try to start the flame the coils are energized, a magnet is turned on. By lifting the coil you should feel the magnet if the flame is on. If the flame does not come on after the ignitor fires check to see if the coils are energized. If not buy the set, it's cheaper then purchasing them separately.

Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.

Removed the door and machine front.replaced old duct assembly with new ,and reassembled front.

By following the directions included with the kit it was fairly clear. The diagrams of the control valve was helpful. It would have helped to tell which screws to remove to access the valve and where the screw was that retained the burner assembly.

A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.

Used PartSelect videos to first diagnose the problem which was worn drum felt seal. Then, used the same videos to replace parts, both needed and convenient to replace b/c of already have access.

While the videos were very helpful, first timers should be aware that there are significant knowledge gaps between a professional's easy repair vs an amateur attempting the same.

Okay, first of all, just let me say, if I can do this, ANYONE can. I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. I watched online videos and they will walk you through everything. I am so pleased with the results. Quiet as can be now. Before, we would have to shut the door when it was on because the scretching was so loud! The parts on this site were far more affordable than at my local repair store and they all came right to my doorstep. Overall it took me about 45 minutes and three beers :) Good luck!

I watched the video

Using the pictoral parts diagrams on the PartSelect website, it was a logical process to disassemble the dryer to change the drum drive belt. This was a great opportunity to clean lint from the motor and air passages and inspect all components. Cleaned the belt track, the roller drum wheels and felt seals. Unit now runs like new. BTW - very fast shipping on the replacement belt and it was the right part the first time!