66512833K311 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

It was easy! First I ordered the expensive replacement parts on line. The parts arrived in one week. I was able to slide the old drawers out, slip a few parts off of the old drawers, snap them on and slide the new drawers in place!

My KitchenAid dishwasher's upper dishrack had several places that were completing rusting out, just leaving the skins of the plastic coating in place. I ordered the upper dishrack - just the dishrack, none of the clips or other items shown in the schematic - and installed it pretty easily. One caution - this is JUST the upper dishrack. If you have two rows of tines that are clipped in and flip-flop back and forth on the left and right wider sides of the rack, you will need to order one or two pieces of part # PS 898500 as well. One of my tine rows was in salvageable shape, so I only needed to order one (in a second order upon discovering I it wasn't included). It wasn't difficult to figure out how the clips could come out and snap back in place. Just be careful, know that these are just plastic items and can break easily.

Followed a video, pretty straightforward. Be sure to clean all the area. My husband used cotton swabs to clean all the gunk.

I replaced both upper rack tracks because the spot welds on one of the factory tracks failed after 18 months. The welds just rusted away and let go. The other track appeared to be close to failure so I replaced both of them. This repair is actually quite easy, but in order to change the tracks, you must pull the appliance out at least a little more than halfway in order to reach the screws that hold the tracks in place. There are four such screws on each side -- they are fastened through the exterior face of the tub. Here is the process:
Use a 1/4" nut driver to remove the bottom front (kick) plate from the appliance. There are two screws, one at each end. There should also be two screws fastening the dishwasher to the countertop. You'll need to open the dishwasher door to see these and remove them. At the bottom of the dishwasher again, you might need to screw the front (2) leveling feet in to lower the dishwasher and provide clearance. Once done, just (gently, slowly) pull the appliance out of the cabinet. Check to make sure your power wiring, drain hose, and water supply hose are all long enough to do this. If necessary, disconnect any of these that are too short. if your power wiring is short, as mine was, you'll need to disconnect the circuit breaker, then remove the junction box at the lower front right side of the dishwasher, then disconnect the power and ground wires.
Once out of the cabinet, use a 5/16" nut driver to remove the four screws holding each rack slide in place and remove the track. The rubber mounts will come out with the track (new tracks include new rubber mounts). Clean any residue from the track mounting area inside the tub before installing the new track. This whole replacement process should take a total of 3-4 minutes per side.
To finish up, just reverse the process. When sliding the dishwasher back into place, make sure the fiberglass insulation stays in place completely around the outside of the tub.
Because the tile on my kitchen floor does not continue under the dishwasher (tile was installed after the cabinets), it was absolutely necessary to turn in the leveling feet to get the appliance out. Since this also makes it very difficult to get a wrench around the plastic feet, I used a very small socket (3/16"?) on the top of the leveling feet stems. This makes it really easy to turn the feet.
I the appliance designers had engineered things better by fastening the tracks from inside the tub, this would be a 5-minute job. But it's still not bad at all.

Remove two screws at top that fasten dishwasher to cabinet. Slide dishwasher out to expose the two links that attach the door to the springs. Fit the new links to the springs and door.

Ordered the "right" part according to the diagram. The part I received was about 1/4" too long so I couldn't use the whole manifold. Took the rubber end off and - fortunately- it fit the old manifold. Dishwasher works fine now. Wish I could have ordered just the rubber valves.

This kit comes with the link cords and the balance wheels. I only needed the cords. I undid the set screws under the counter edge and slid the Dishwasher out from under the counter. One of the links had a broken cord and the spring had snapped to the very back of the space and was a bit hard to find. I used the good side as a guide to see how to thread the cord correctly. I did not replace the wheels since they appeared to be in good shape and looked like they might be a bit more difficult to replace than just the cord. For a second I thought I had ordered the wrong part because the new cord's attachment point at the hinge did not look exactly like the originals but the new design worked just like the original. I did need one other person to help stretch the spring and hold the door in the best position so I could attach the cord to the hinge. It's working perfectly now and I saved the wheels in case I need them later.

I removed the old gasket. Cleaned the surface under the old gasket and began pressing the new gasket into place. Make sure the gasket is pressed all the way in to properly seat it in the groove. Didn't use the tube of gasket sealer and it worked perfectly no leak,

Was a cinch just watched the video whole procedure took an hr or so

Just had to transfer all the kit parts from the old rack to the new one.
It was important to leave one side of the kit parts(the wheel and other plastic pieces) on the old one while transferring the other side of the kit parts to the new rack so that I had a visual reference for placement and orientation of the parts on the new rack.

I found instructions on line when I goggled my dishwasher name and model number with the words noisy door. There were three or four good suggestions at a couple of the sites I visited. I tried applying vasoline, then silicone to the rope where it travels through the plastic guides but that just cut the sound down about 50%. My dishwasher has plastic guides that look like rollers but they don't turn, they are fixed in place. The ropes squeak as the pass over the guides. The replacement part kit has plastic guides that turn like wheels now so the rope does not drag over them and squeak. This repair could be done by me in 20 minutes or less every time now that I know what I am doing.

I removed the black bottom metal cover then turned the nuts on the adjusting (leveling) bolts to lower the front end of the dishwasher so I could pull it out of the cabinet. Once I lowered is as low as it would go I opened the door and pushed down on it which tilts the dishwasher down and you pull out on it and the top lip clears the cabinet. If your dishwasher just pulls out the first time you try these steps may not be necessary.
Once the dishwasher is out the guides and rope are down at the bottom in the front by the door. It's obvious what to do to replace them.

Although the lower rack was a slightly different style than our original, it fit the dishwasher perfectly. We needed to transfer the silverware racks to the new rack and insert one set of removable tines. About 5 minutes and we are very happy with the repair.

Replace motor-pump. All was as advertised plus the surprise of included outlet hose. I didn't have the tool to operate the clamp, it leaked, so I replaced it with a stainless worm gear type.

No brainer

simple...a female did it!! Dealing with PartSelect was so easy...your was the only web site that made it super easy to find my part. Placed order and paid for it...part arrived the next day!! Sent web site link to hubby too. When we need parts again for any applicance in our home, we will check your site out first!!