66213043K112 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Installed the rubber grommet and the door was fixed.Wish the product was made to lasts,second time in three years the part had to be replaced.

star bit to take inside door screws out (2 long screws in the top corners) - wife held door to the side - unscrewed dispenser, unplug dispenser power supply - pull out old dispenser - install the new dispenser (there is a gasket flap that goes over the dispenser when you put the new one in place before the screws go in) - it is easier if two people hold the door panel when sliding it over the stops to align the screw holes - very simple.

This was one of the easiest repair jobs I've done. The only reason it took over 15 minutes was because when I put the front cover back on I did not line up one side properly and had to take it off again. No big deal. This replacement part truly is just a plug and play replacement. Awesome!

remove 12 torxhead screws from door cover remove cover remove 6 screws from dispenser unplug harness and remove dispenser and rubber curtain. just reverse this and done. hardest part is unpluging harness with fat fingers

Replaced latch switch with parts-select whirlpool (usa) model (good choice) and unit still wouldn't turn on. I then turned 115 vac power off to unit for 1 minute and then back on and unit worked correctly with no additional problems. .

Removed front panel and screwed old dispenser. Torx screwdriver and tiny nut driver a must!

1) Symptom: The soap dispenser did not open up during a cycle, and a soapy mess was present after completion of the cycle.
2) Looked on the WEB site for spare Kitchenaid parts, and with the model and serial number inside the door found the diagram related to the soap dispenser (which was on the Inner Door Parts page).
3) Unscrewed the bottom portion of the door (3 philips screws on each side). You do not need to unscrew the top portion.
4) Noted that the soap dispenser lever is controlled by a solenoid relay.
5) Disconnected the power to the dishwasher (I did this on the power panel: I believe it is code that a separate circuit is used for a dishwasher).
6) Then I disconnected the connection to the soap dispenser (there is a little lever at the bottom to release the connection). Then used an ohmmeter to check for continuity of the coil. Since there was no continuity, it was pretty obvious that the solenoid was defective. It is an expensive part, so double checking is important.
7) I was not absolutely certain the the electronic control module was defective as well. This is also an expensive part. To verify this, I connected an AC voltmeter to the connector, re-connected power to the dishwasher and started to run a cycle (just close the door – you do not have to add the door front). I found that immediately after the water had taken it that approx. 95 volts AC was present. That suggested that voltage was being applied. However as I found out later, this conclusion was not correct. The true reason was that no load was present, and therefore the voltage reading could not be considered reliable. In this case, this step was not essential.
8) At this time I was convinced that I needed to replace the soap dispenser and that replacement of the electronic control module was likely not necessary.
9) Obtained a new soap dispenser assembly.
10) Disconnect the power to the dishwasher.
11) Removing the old soap assembly was not difficult using an appropriately sized socket.
12) Just put the new soap assembly back in its place was no problem. Note however how the flap is positioned: the slot on the top reaches the tab on the soap dispenser. Only one side has the hole for the top size screw and the other side just goes between the door backing and the soap dispenser.
13) Reconnect the wiring assembly to the connector of the soap dispenser.
14) Re-connect the power to the dishwasher.
15) Close the dishwasher door and leave the panel still off. Run a cycle and monitor that there are no leaks and everything runs normal. Every now and then I opened the door and noted the position of the release lever. In this way I found out that later in the cycle the soap is released. I could not find in the documentation when in the cycle it actually occurred. Anyway, I let the cycle conclude and at the end I found that the soap dispenser had opened up during the cycle.
16) Put the outside panel back on. Repair successful and the lady very happy!
17) I hope this is helpful to others.

Electricity to the dishwasher was turned off at the electrical panel. I removed two screws from the bottom plate where the dishwasher meets the floor. I removed another bottom plate that had insulation attached to it that was behind the first plate. I also removed 6 screws from the inside of the dishwasher front panel. The screws are located along the edge of each side of the front panel. Once these screws were removed I was able to remove the front panel that acts as a cover for the outside of the dishwasher. With the front panel removed I noticed there was a bracket holding the soap dispenser in place attached by 6 very small screws. These had to be carefully removed so as not to strip them. With the bracket removed it appeared I could pop out the soap dispenser unit from the dishwasher door. However there were two small metal tabs that kept the soap dispenser in place. These needed to be gently pried up to free the dispenser unit. Before removing the old soap dispenser I unplugged the electrical connector that was attached to it. Once the old soap dispenser was removed I popped the new one in until the little metal tabs clicked it into place. The electrical connector was attached to the new soup dispenser. I re-attached the bracket that held the soap dispenser in place using the 6 teeny tiny screws and attached the front facing cover by putting the 6 edge screws back in. The two panels found near the bottom of the unit were re-attached. Turned the juice back on from the electrical panel and ran the dishwasher as a test. I monitored for leaks and functionality of the new soap dispenser. Repair complete.