91141169791 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

After turning off the breaker to cut power to the oven, I opened the oven door and, using the PartSelect exploded diagram as a guide, I removed 3 screws from the underside of the control panel - I was then able to slide the panel up and out to remove it. Leaving all of the control wires (especially the ribbon) connected to control panel, I saw the fan assembly mounted to the rear of the control box.

I noted the position of the two attached wires - black on top (or left), white on bottom (or right). Using a nutdriver with an extension bar, I unscrewed 4 screws holding the assembly in place. I removed the old fan and installed the new fan in its place. It was necessary to bend the new fan's legs out a bit to get them to line up with the holes. I reconnected the wires as mentioned above, then reinstalled the control panel.

I tested the oven by turning the breaker back on and letting the oven heat up to 450 degrees. The fan turned on as expected. After the oven cooled off, I reinstalled the 3 screws to secure the control panel.

I took the door off, removed the four phillips screws that held the wall oven in it's hole. All the 1/4" fasteners were on the face of the over but you have to pull the oven forward to remove the hinges.
Buying thes two hinges from G.E. would have cost $ 90.00 I paid $ 55.00 from Part Select and they arrived the NEXT DAY. I did not do rush shipping.

One hinge assembly wouldn't close all the way, so the door wouldn't close completely. Removed the door. Removed the screws holding the entire oven to the cabinet (6-8 screws) and pulled out the whole oven about 6 inches. Since it's big and heavy, I rested it on an old plastic milk crate.

The pulley inside one hinge assembly was broken. It's held in by two screws from the front, removed those, took out the old assembly, put in the new, put the screws back in, pushed the whole oven back into the cabinet, put the screws back in to hold it to the cabinet, and put the door back on.

Above all else it is imperative that the circuit breaker to the oven be turned off so that no current is flowing to the appliance. Two screws at the base of the heating element need to be removed at which point you can simply pull the element out. Carefully pull the electrical connections off and remove the broken heating element and replace it with the new one. Reinstall the screws. Turn the power back on and allow the element to heat until the oil that was applied to it at the factory burns away as a vapor in a few minutes. You're done!!!

The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)

Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two hex head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.

Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

Removed the oven door. Removed screws on side strips and on oven frame where springs were located. Pulled out oven so I could reach the springs. Removed old springs and installed new springs. Installed side strips and remaining screws. Pushed oven back in place and put the door back on.

Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Made triple sure electricity off. GE designed excellent access to box above oven. Remove three bolts above oven door on bottom of control panel. Slightly raise panel to take off control panel, let hang by wires. Fan in back wall behind panel and has two wires that unplug, four screws to remove. Plug in new fan, input 4 screws. Partselect excellent guide to make sure correct part was ordered, and very timely delivery. $85.00 part instead of $1500.00 new oven. Tip - Note that fan burns out when auto clean turned on. Stop doing that and problem doesn't repeat.

I gently pulled the door gasket up at hold pin points - which were spaced every 3-4 inches apart- the pins hold the gasket to the oven door. Once removed, I pushed the pins of the new gasket in holes of the door - starting at top center of door- until all pins were snapped in place. At the bottom of the door are two slotted holes through which each end of the door gasket terminates. Push ends of gasket into these holes until gasket lies flat to oven door.

I remove four screws two on the left side and two screws on the right side. I pull the oven out about ten inches, removed two screws that hold the hinge in place, took out the broken hinge and reverse the installation.

Turn power to oven off at the breaker.
Remove access panel to upper control panel.
With the aid of an extension rod remove the hex headed screws succuring the fan to the baffle wall. Remove the fan. Replacement model did not have wire extending from it. So remove wire from original fan and attach it to the replacement fan terminals using an appropriate adapter. Install new fan in original position with original screws. Be sure to reconnect wire in the same orientation as the original fan (right side to white wire). Repeat process for the second fan in the upper control compartment. Handy trick for re-installing hex head screw in deep location....use a small piece of electrical tape to hold the hex head screw head inside the socket driver. After tightening is completed the tape will fall away from the screw.

Check that all wiring connections are back in place and tight. Re-install cover and turn the breaker back on. Test the oven out by heating it up again. It will take approximately 30 minutes to reach a steady state temperature inside the oven so that the circulation fans in the control panel turn on.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!