91136764100 Kenmore Range - Instructions

This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires

After unscrewing the old heat sensor from inside the oven, I pulled the range away from the wall, got behind it and removed the small panel over the heat sensor. Naturally, the plastic clips connecting the heat sensor to the range wiring wouldn't come apart, so I eventually had to simply pry them apart with two pliers. Then, naturally, the new plastic connector clip on the replacement part didn't match the clip from the range, so I had to cut off both receptacles and strip the wires, then used the provided wire nuts to make the connections. After that, it was easy, just secured the heat sensor inside the oven and replaced the panel. I didn't push the range back against the wall until I tested the repair. It worked fine!

Called GE for part number crossover from gray to black and asked for an email quote. Called Parts Select for pricing, which was alot lower! Shipping took five days and less then $8.00 buck....now mama's happy!!!! Thanks for great frendly service from Mike in California.

The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)

Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two hex head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.

Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.

First pull oven door up and off hinges, this should slide right off. Remove oven racks. Remove heat shield at bottom of oven, this should have small slide lock at front bottom of oven, just twist to unlock. You will then see the burner tube and ignitor which is connected to the burner tube. The ignitor is connected to another flange which is welded to the burner tube, by disconnecting the burner tube you have much easier access to the two screws holding the ignitor on to the tube. Remove the hexhead screw connecting burner tube flange to bottom of oven, then slide burner to the left to remove from gas supply tube, this should slide right off. Pull carefully towards yourself to pull wired connections of ignitor through hole in back of oven. Disconnect wirenuts, there should be two for the two wires connecting the ignitor, these may be wrapped in heat or electrical tape, remove tape. You now can pull the entire assembley of Ignitor and burner tube out of oven. Now remove the two threaded hexhead screws connecting the ignitor to flange on bottom of burner tube. That's it. Re-connect new ignitor to flange on burner tube, put tube and ignitor back into oven and re-connect wires using original wirenuts, use heat tape or electrical tape to wrap wires and wire nuts, push wires through hole in back of oven and re-position / re-attach burner tube. Secure burner tube with hexhead screw, replace heat shield, racks and door and voila. Should take less than 20 minutes unless you have a stripped screw attaching ignitor to supply tube flange.

As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two front supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!

I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.

Removed the two screws holding the porcelain burner bowl. Disconected the electric igniter by removing the "w" clip on the underside of the bowl. Then disconnected the igniter from the electric supply cord. Reverse these directions using the new urner bowl.
Really easy.

It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.

No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140

I unscrewed the burners which was three screws per burner then removed gas control knobs and pulled up range top and un hooked the old module and replaced it with the new one two screws hold it in place and connected it the same way the old one was and put range back together and now it works perfect and saved me over $250.00 and part only coated around $40 with shipping great parts seller and I highly recommend partselect.com very easy fix thanks

Pulled off burner grates, burner, unscrewed burner bowl, removed clip from igniter and wire, then put it all back together. Was very easy, and the stove looks like new again.

PartSelect is very good with amazing shipment times. The kjpart arrived much sooner than expected.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

No way to adjust mixer tube assembly so the mounting holes will line up with the holes in the burner bowl. Mounting
holes in bowl should be slotted to prevent future problems.
Had to finally bend the mixer tube mounting bracket enough to get one bowl on. It also made the procelin break
on that bowl because the screw put to much pressure on the side of the hole.

Igighter mounting hole out of position just enough to prevent the burner head from sliding over it and sitting on
the mixer tube correctly.

I solved this problem by fileing the opening slot for the igniter. Even with the igniters being just a little out of
alignment from the original position they still light well.

I did not get new gaskets for the burner bowl but would reccommend that you get them.