JDS1450DP0 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

First, we turned on broil and the upper element turned orange and obviously worked. We figured the bottom element went out. The diagram on this site showed a bottom heating element that looked nothing like ours, but after reading other reviews, and reading that part that goes through the back of the oven was in the middle, and not off to the side, we ordered this element. It was perfect. All you have to do is unplug the oven, take out the bottom pan covering the element by removing 2 screws in the back, remove the lower small cover on the back of the oven and then unplug the old element, unscrew the old element on the inside of the stove, then install the new element and put everything back like it was. Nothing to it. It worked like a charm and my oven now heats up fast again. Easiest appliance repair job ever!

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

1. Unplugged stove
2. Removed two (2) screws from bottom panel in oven cavity
3. Lifted out bottom panel
4. Removed two (2) screws from bake element standoffs.
5. Removed two (2) screws from bake element (Rear of oven cavity)
6. Removed Terminal Block Cover Box by removing two (2) screws and lifting up on it.
7. Removed lugs from the ends of the bake element.
8. Extracted bake element.
9 Inserted bake element through rear opening and attached the two lugs removed in step 7.
10 Inserted two screws removed in step 5.
11. This bake element only had a standoff bracket in the front. Used one (1) screw from step 4. for front standoff.
12 Replaced bottom panel and two screws.
13 Reinstalled Terminal Block Cover Box and two screws.
14. Plugged oven in and tested oven.

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

I purchased all the likely suspects. It was a corroded lower heating element that was faulty. Fixed the burnt out light bulb for good measure while I was in there.

Unplug from power source, remove panel on back of range, unplug power connections for bottom element on back of range, remove bottom pan in oven installed element, put back together in reverse. Video on parts select website is the bomb!

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

I watched a video on google on how to replace the element and then looked on the internet to order the element. When the part arrived, I pulled the range out and unplugged it. Then I watched the video again and followed the techs instructions to remove the element and replaced it with the new one. It’s a very simple process that I think almost anyone can do . The online videos make the job easier because they show exactly the order of disassembly and assembly, and Part Select helped with finding the right part and shipping it in a timely manner. Thank you!

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

We watched the excellent video and followed the steps. We're in our 70s which is why we needed a flashlight to see the screws in the oven! So if we can do it...