Models > JVM1810DS1BB

JVM1810DS1BB General Electric Microwave

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Diagrams for JVM1810DS1BB

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This ceramic microwave fuse is just over an inch in length. It is white in the center, and metal on both ends. This is a 20-amp fuse, and is used to power your microwave. If the touch pad on the micro...
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This interlock switch is located in the door latch.
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Sold individually. Appliance may take 2.
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This is the replacement damper bracket for your microwave. It is made of plastic and is approximately 11 inches wide and 3 inches long. The damper bracket attaches to the outer cabinet and directs air...
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This part is the replacement high-voltage diode for your microwave. It is approximately 3 inches long and is sold individually. The high voltage diode is an electrical current control device inside yo...
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This part is the replacement plastic rivet, or stirrer fan cover clip for your microwave. It is made of white plastic and is approximately ¼ inch in diameter, and ½ inch long. The plastic rivet holds ...
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Screws NOT included.
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$15.68
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This mounting plate, also known as a bracket, is crucial for keeping your microwave mounted to the wall, when placed above the stove. This OEM part is sold separately from the screws that are needed t...
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This kit contains all pieces required to mount a microwave to the wall. The mounting plate is sold separately.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for JVM1810DS1BB

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No heat
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Won’t turn on
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Touchpad does not respond
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Doesn’t shut off
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Tray won’t turn
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Customer:
Kim from Cliffside Park, NJ
Parts Used:
WB27X10928
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Microwave completely stopped working
Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the mic rowave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
962 of 1249 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Ralph from Brandon, FL
Parts Used:
WB27X10928
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
I diagnosed the problem incorrectly: based on a previous repair.
The old fuse is perfectly good. The new ones arrived within a day.
64 of 137 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Michael from Ridgefield, CT
Parts Used:
WB24X10047
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Microwave would turn on and count down, but not heating and not rotate turntable. Pressing door up would occasionally start heat.
First I disconnected the power and opened the door. Then I removed the top screws holding the top vent louvers, then removed the screw at the top of the touch pad. The touch pad removes by sliding up slightly then tilting top out. I unscrewed two screws holding the door latch assembly. Press the tab to remove and replace switch. Reco nnect wires, reseat latch mount by placing top bracket tab in place first, allign and secure with screws. Reseat touch pad by placing bottom tabs in first, tilt forward and press up to seat top tabs, secure with top screw. Secure vent louver screws, plug in and watch your microwave work again.
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