SHX68T56UC (02) Bosch Dishwasher - Instructions

The bottom rack of our Bosch dishwasher was discontinued & no longer available anywhere, so we ordered an OEM replacement rack from PartSelect.com & hoped that it would fit.

The new rack fits perfectly & is actually an improvement over the old one. The new rack doesn't have a vase tower, but that is actually a big design improvement because it can store more dishes & is more flexible than the old one. The new rack comes without a handle cover, but it was very easy to move the handle cover from our old rack to the new one.

The E:15 error code means water is detected in the pan under the unit. There are several ways this can happen.

In this case, it was caused by a bad inlet valve. It did not close properly and led to an overflow of water inside that eventually spilled into the pan underneath the unit.

I see now why the pump keeps running after this error. In this case, it would have led to a big flood in the kitchen if it did not.

I was actually able to run the unit while broke by manually operating the valve under our sink that provides water to the unit.

Be sure to turn off breaker before servicing. Don't get shocked!

Be sure to turn off water before starting! Or, you'll have a flood.

Anyway, I just pulled the unit out (was secured by 2 screws on the sides). I lifted up the insulation material on the left side to get at the valve. Pushed a little green tab to release the electrical plug. Then, use pliers to move clamp off the white water hose on the inside. Then, pull of white hose. This was hard in my case. Took a lot of force. Then, reach behind the unit and use pliers to unscrew water hose. Now, the whole gray panel there can pop out with some force. Then, slip the old valve out and slip new one in. Reconnect hoses and clamp. Note that I put some caulk on the connector where white hose goes. Not sure if needed or not.

Good luck!

pushed with thumb pressure and snapped rollers into place.....EASY

Removed the spray arm, front handle, and little clips from the old rack and installed onto the new rack. Was very simple.

Removed two rusted tines lines, then I unclipped the stabilizers, installed four other positioning clips, put the two adjustable tines in the two vertical plastic stabilizers at the ends of the lower baskets. Worked like a charm and all is good. May I suggest using stainless steel or more nickel in the iron used in the basket or a thicker or more durable plastic in the tines.

Turned off electric
Slid out unit - the water connection on this model is in the back
Disconnected the H2O hose. This valve access part is the part that connects the dishwasher to the H2O supply. The soon to be replaced part had sediment in it preventing H2O to go into the dishwasher and into the basin instead. The exploded view of dishwasher was a big help. It was a guess as to why this was happening. Now that I’ve had it apart it makes sense that this is the part that would fail after a period of time, especially if you have city H2O. My husband Bob did this repair.

EASILY replaced spring. Pulled dishwasher out to expose broken spring; lightly tapped in new spring into slot using rubber mallet; used pliers to pull plastic thingy over door bracket.
Watched YouTube video first. Easy fix!

Replaced the valve access. Attempt to complete cycle failed. The pump-drain was replaced relatively easily. The second attempt was successful and we’re back to normal.The parts came quickly considering the holiday rush. We are very pleased. Thank you so much.

I could not decipher whether repair parts kit was exact original or modified by Bosch. Ordered kit 754866 and found it contained exactly what I needed. The kit added a metal tab to springs that fit next to broken tab in a slot in the base frame. They were tapped into place with a small hammer per directions that came with it. Rest of task was relatively simple.

I watched a YouTube video on this but ending up not needing to follow it too closely. I have a granite counter top, so no need to remove any screws on the top lip of the dishwasher. I also had a very long water hose, drain hose and electric cord, so I could pull the dishwasher out without disconnecting or turning off anything. All was left was to remove the sound insulation from the top (be sure to get it back on like you took it off) and then take the old springs out. They were kinda stuck in there but even if you get some plastic coming with them, there is a slot for the new replacement spring to be hammered back in. Hammer the spring back in (I used a brass hammer) and route the cord back up to the latch for the cord. Make sure you don't get it upside down or you may get a noise when it hits the metal. If there is a sharp bang when the door closes, you need to turn the plastic clip over. Usually only one side will break first and you can use the other side as a guide on how things should fit. Using needle nose pliers, reconnect the plastic end (opposite the spring) back into the steel clip (do this with the door shut). Do the same to the other side and you are finished. Make sure the door operates well with no noise before you slide it back in. The spring kit I got was PN PS8770519 for my Bosch Dishwasher which is 19 years old, I assume that iy came with the house and that's how old the house is. Easy

Removed old rack and several accessory pieces, and installed them on the new rack. Slid the new rack back in. Took about 15-20 minutes top. Very easy to do.

replacing the sensor was simple, just unplug and turn it out, but didn't solve the problem, it's a float sensor that doesn't show up on the tech sheet in the dishwasher or anywhere in troubleshooting on the internet I could find.

Turned off power and water supply. Pulled dishwasher out. Disconnected the water inlet from the back left side. Swapped out the inlet valve. Wiped up the water in the bottom pan. Put dishwasher back and turned on water and power. Simple.

I removed the old gasket easily, it pulled right out. I spent a few minutes cleaning the gunk out from the seam using a standard kitchen cleaner (it was gross and I had to do it multiple times). Tip: pay attention to the shape of the gasket and which side faces in vs. out when pulling out the old one. Also, for reference, take a photo of the old gasket and how it's positioned before pulling it out. Then, simply start at the bottom (either side) and insert the new gasket. Work your way up, over and down the other side. If it's facing the right way it'll go in very easily, if not is will be very difficult—this is how you'll know. After installation, run your dishwasher empty for a full cycle (with towel underneath the door) and check back frequently during the cycle. If there are no leaks you're done. This was the fastest, easiest way to attempt to fix a leaky door and eliminate the gasket as the problem (which it did!) If the machine still leaks the issue is likely something bigger.

Went to on line video and followed it. The old gasket came right out and the new one fit right in. Started at the top middle and worked the gasket in on both sides to make sure it was evenly spaced.